/* Voice of the Sea — main stylesheet
   Direction: deep-water editorial. Abyssal navy for photo viewing, warm sand
   paper for reading, sea-glass teal accents and one coral call-to-action colour. */

:root {
  /* REPLACEABLE IMAGES */
  /* (none: every photo is an <img> in the HTML so it can be swapped file-by-file;
     see assets/manifest.json) */

  --abyss: #071a26;
  --deep: #0c2a3b;
  --sea: #134a61;
  --teal: #5fd0c0;
  --teal-dark: #186b72;
  --coral: #ff8a65;
  --coral-hover: #ffa182;
  --sand: #f7f3ec;
  --sand-2: #efe8dc;
  --paper: #fffdf9;
  --ink: #15232c;
  --ink-soft: #46565f;
  --line: #ddd4c5;
  --on-dark: #e8f1f2;
  --on-dark-soft: #a9c0c7;

  --serif: "Iowan Old Style", "Palatino Linotype", Palatino, "Book Antiqua", Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;
  --sans: system-ui, -apple-system, "Segoe UI", Roboto, "Helvetica Neue", Arial, sans-serif;

  --step--1: clamp(.84rem, .82rem + .1vw, .9rem);
  --step-0: clamp(1rem, .97rem + .15vw, 1.08rem);
  --step-1: clamp(1.2rem, 1.12rem + .4vw, 1.4rem);
  --step-2: clamp(1.45rem, 1.3rem + .8vw, 1.9rem);
  --step-3: clamp(1.8rem, 1.5rem + 1.5vw, 2.6rem);
  --step-4: clamp(2.3rem, 1.8rem + 2.6vw, 3.8rem);

  --space-1: .5rem; --space-2: 1rem; --space-3: 1.5rem; --space-4: 2.5rem; --space-5: 4rem; --space-6: 6rem;
  --radius: 10px;
  --wrap: 1180px;
  --shadow: 0 12px 32px -14px rgba(7, 26, 38, .45);
}

*, *::before, *::after { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; scroll-behavior: smooth; scroll-padding-top: 5rem; }
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) { html { scroll-behavior: auto; } *, *::before, *::after { transition: none !important; } }
body { margin: 0; font-family: var(--sans); font-size: var(--step-0); line-height: 1.6; color: var(--ink); background: var(--sand); }
img { max-width: 100%; height: auto; display: block; }
a { color: var(--teal-dark); text-decoration-thickness: 1px; text-underline-offset: .18em; }
a:hover { color: var(--sea); }
:focus-visible { outline: 3px solid var(--coral); outline-offset: 3px; border-radius: 4px; }
h1, h2, h3 { font-family: var(--serif); font-weight: 600; line-height: 1.15; letter-spacing: -.01em; margin: 0 0 .5em; }
h1 { font-size: var(--step-4); }
h2 { font-size: var(--step-3); }
h3 { font-size: var(--step-1); }
p { margin: 0 0 1em; }
figure { margin: 0; }
.wrap { width: min(100% - 2.5rem, var(--wrap)); margin-inline: auto; }
.narrow { max-width: 760px; }
.center { text-align: center; }
.visually-hidden { position: absolute !important; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); white-space: nowrap; }
.skip { position: absolute; left: -999px; top: .5rem; z-index: 100; background: var(--coral); color: var(--abyss); padding: .5rem 1rem; border-radius: 6px; font-weight: 600; }
.skip:focus { left: .5rem; }

/* ------------------------------------------------ buttons & links */
.btn { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center; gap: .4em; font: 600 1rem/1.2 var(--sans); padding: .8em 1.35em; border-radius: 999px; text-decoration: none; border: 2px solid transparent; cursor: pointer; transition: background .2s, color .2s, border-color .2s, transform .2s; }
.btn:hover { transform: translateY(-1px); }
.btn-coral { background: var(--coral); color: var(--abyss); }
.btn-coral:hover { background: var(--coral-hover); color: var(--abyss); }
.btn-ghost { border-color: rgba(232, 241, 242, .5); color: var(--on-dark); background: transparent; }
.btn-ghost:hover { border-color: var(--on-dark); color: #fff; background: rgba(255, 255, 255, .06); }
.btn-ghost-dark { border-color: var(--sea); color: var(--sea); }
.btn-ghost-dark:hover { background: var(--sea); color: #fff; }
.btn-sm { padding: .55em 1.05em; font-size: .92rem; }
.btn-lg { padding: .95em 1.6em; font-size: 1.05rem; }
.link-arrow { font-weight: 600; text-decoration: none; color: var(--teal-dark); }
.link-arrow::after { content: " →"; transition: margin .2s; }
.link-arrow:hover::after { margin-left: .2em; }
.link-arrow.light, .dark .link-arrow { color: var(--teal); }

/* ------------------------------------------------ header */
.site-header { position: sticky; top: 0; z-index: 50; background: rgba(7, 26, 38, .94); backdrop-filter: saturate(140%) blur(8px); border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(95, 208, 192, .15); color: var(--on-dark); }
.bar { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 1rem; min-height: 4.25rem; }
.brand { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: .65rem; text-decoration: none; color: inherit; margin-right: auto; }
.brand .mark { width: 2.4rem; height: 2.4rem; flex: none; }
.brand-text { display: flex; flex-direction: column; line-height: 1.1; }
.brand-name { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.25rem; font-weight: 600; color: #fff; }
.brand-tag { font-size: .74rem; letter-spacing: .06em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--on-dark-soft); }
.site-nav { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 1.25rem; }
.site-nav ul { list-style: none; display: flex; gap: .25rem; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.site-nav ul a { display: block; padding: .5rem .75rem; color: var(--on-dark); text-decoration: none; border-radius: 6px; font-weight: 500; }
.site-nav ul a:hover { background: rgba(255, 255, 255, .07); color: #fff; }
.site-nav ul a[aria-current] { color: var(--teal); box-shadow: inset 0 -2px 0 var(--teal); border-radius: 0; }
.nav-toggle { display: none; }

@media (max-width: 900px) {
  .js .nav-toggle { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: .5rem; background: none; border: 1px solid rgba(232, 241, 242, .35); color: var(--on-dark); border-radius: 999px; padding: .45rem .9rem; font: 600 .9rem var(--sans); cursor: pointer; }
  .nav-toggle-bars, .nav-toggle-bars::before, .nav-toggle-bars::after { display: block; width: 16px; height: 2px; background: currentColor; position: relative; }
  .nav-toggle-bars::before, .nav-toggle-bars::after { content: ""; position: absolute; left: 0; }
  .nav-toggle-bars::before { top: -5px; } .nav-toggle-bars::after { top: 5px; }
  .bar { flex-wrap: wrap; }
  .site-nav { flex-basis: 100%; flex-direction: column; align-items: stretch; gap: .75rem; padding: 0 0 1rem; }
  .site-nav ul { flex-direction: column; }
  .site-nav ul a { padding: .7rem .25rem; border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, .08); border-radius: 0; }
  .site-nav ul a[aria-current] { box-shadow: none; }
  .js .site-nav { display: none; }
  .js .nav-open .site-nav { display: flex; }
  .brand-tag { display: none; }
}
@media (max-width: 900px) and (min-width: 0) { .no-js .site-nav ul { flex-direction: row; flex-wrap: wrap; } }

/* ------------------------------------------------ dark sections */
.dark { background: var(--abyss); color: var(--on-dark); }
.dark h1, .dark h2, .dark h3 { color: #fff; }
.dark a:not(.btn) { color: var(--teal); }
.dark .meta { color: var(--on-dark-soft); }
.section { padding: var(--space-5) 0; }
.section-alt { background: var(--sand-2); }
.section-head { max-width: 720px; margin-bottom: var(--space-4); }
.section-head p { color: var(--ink-soft); font-size: var(--step-1); font-family: var(--serif); }
.eyebrow { font-size: .8rem; font-weight: 700; letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--teal); margin-bottom: .75rem; }
.eyebrow-dark { color: var(--teal-dark); }
.meta { font-size: var(--step--1); color: var(--ink-soft); }

/* ------------------------------------------------ hero */
.hero { background: radial-gradient(1200px 600px at 85% -10%, #134a61 0%, rgba(19, 74, 97, 0) 60%), linear-gradient(180deg, #0a2433 0%, var(--abyss) 100%); padding: var(--space-5) 0 var(--space-5); overflow: hidden; }
.hero-grid { display: grid; gap: var(--space-4); align-items: center; }
@media (min-width: 960px) { .hero-grid { grid-template-columns: 1.05fr 1fr; gap: var(--space-5); } }
.hero h1 { font-size: clamp(2.8rem, 2rem + 4vw, 5rem); margin-bottom: .3em; }
.hero-promise { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: var(--step-2); line-height: 1.35; color: var(--on-dark); max-width: 34ch; }
.hero-actions { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .75rem; margin: var(--space-3) 0 var(--space-4); }
.facts { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0; display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); gap: 1px; background: rgba(95, 208, 192, .2); border: 1px solid rgba(95, 208, 192, .2); border-radius: var(--radius); overflow: hidden; max-width: 560px; }
@media (min-width: 560px) { .facts { grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); } }
.facts li { background: var(--abyss); padding: .9rem 1rem; display: flex; flex-direction: column; }
.facts strong { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.6rem; color: #fff; line-height: 1.1; }
.facts span { font-size: .8rem; color: var(--on-dark-soft); }
.hero-photo { max-width: 647px; justify-self: center; width: 100%; }
.hero-photo img { width: 100%; border-radius: var(--radius); box-shadow: 0 30px 60px -25px rgba(0, 0, 0, .8), 0 0 0 1px rgba(255, 255, 255, .06); }
.hero-photo figcaption { margin-top: .7rem; font-size: var(--step--1); color: var(--on-dark-soft); font-style: italic; }

/* ------------------------------------------------ category tiles (home) */
.cat-tiles { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0 0 var(--space-4); display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(min(100%, 240px), 1fr)); gap: 1.25rem; }
.cat-tile a { display: block; text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink); background: var(--paper); border-radius: var(--radius); overflow: hidden; box-shadow: 0 1px 0 var(--line); transition: transform .25s, box-shadow .25s; height: 100%; }
.cat-tile a:hover { transform: translateY(-3px); box-shadow: var(--shadow); }
.cat-tile img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: auto; background: var(--deep); }
.cat-tile-name { display: block; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.2rem; font-weight: 600; padding: .8rem 1rem 0; }
.cat-tile-count { display: block; padding: 0 1rem .9rem; font-size: var(--step--1); color: var(--ink-soft); }

/* ------------------------------------------------ about */
.about-grid { display: grid; gap: var(--space-4); align-items: start; }
@media (min-width: 860px) { .about-grid { grid-template-columns: minmax(240px, 338px) 1fr; gap: var(--space-5); } }
.about-portrait img { border-radius: var(--radius); box-shadow: var(--shadow); width: 100%; max-width: 338px; }
.about-portrait figcaption { font-size: var(--step--1); color: var(--ink-soft); margin-top: .5rem; }
.about-text { max-width: 680px; }
.passion { margin: 1.5rem 0; padding: 1.25rem 0 .25rem 1.5rem; border-left: 3px solid var(--teal-dark); font-family: var(--serif); font-size: var(--step-1); line-height: 1.5; color: var(--ink); }
.actions { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; gap: 1.25rem; }

/* ------------------------------------------------ report cards */
.report-grid { display: grid; gap: 1.5rem; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(min(100%, 300px), 1fr)); margin-bottom: var(--space-4); }
.report-card { background: var(--paper); border-radius: var(--radius); overflow: hidden; box-shadow: 0 1px 0 var(--line); display: grid; }
.report-card .rc-body { padding: 1.1rem 1.25rem 1.3rem; }
.report-card h3 { margin-bottom: .3em; }
.report-card h3 a { color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; }
.report-card h3 a:hover { color: var(--teal-dark); text-decoration: underline; }
.report-card .kicker { margin-bottom: .3rem; }
.report-card p { color: var(--ink-soft); }
.rc-img { display: block; background: var(--deep); }
.rc-img img { width: 100%; }
.kicker { font-size: .78rem; font-weight: 700; letter-spacing: .12em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--teal-dark); }
.dark .kicker { color: var(--teal); }
.place { font-size: var(--step--1); color: var(--ink-soft); margin-bottom: .5rem; }
.dark .place { color: var(--on-dark-soft); }
.report-list { display: grid; gap: 1.25rem; }
@media (min-width: 720px) {
  .report-list .report-card { grid-template-columns: 260px 1fr; align-items: start; }
  .report-list .rc-img { margin: 1.1rem 0 1.1rem 1.1rem; border-radius: 6px; overflow: hidden; }
}

/* ------------------------------------------------ recognition */
.recognition { background: linear-gradient(160deg, var(--deep), var(--abyss)); }
.rec-grid { display: grid; gap: var(--space-4); align-items: center; }
@media (min-width: 860px) { .rec-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1.1fr; } }
.rec-photo img { border-radius: var(--radius); box-shadow: 0 0 0 1px rgba(255, 255, 255, .08); }
.rec-links { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 1rem 0 0; display: grid; gap: .5rem; }

/* ------------------------------------------------ quotes */
.quote-grid { display: grid; gap: 1.25rem; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(min(100%, 330px), 1fr)); align-items: start; }
.quote-grid-3 { margin-bottom: var(--space-3); }
.quote { background: var(--paper); border-radius: var(--radius); padding: 1.4rem 1.5rem 1.2rem; box-shadow: 0 1px 0 var(--line); position: relative; }
.quote::before { content: "“"; position: absolute; top: .2rem; left: 1rem; font: 700 3.2rem/1 var(--serif); color: var(--teal); opacity: .5; }
.quote blockquote { margin: 0; padding-top: 1rem; }
.quote blockquote p { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.05rem; line-height: 1.55; }
.quote figcaption { display: flex; flex-direction: column; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); padding-top: .7rem; }
.q-author { font-weight: 700; }
.q-role { font-size: var(--step--1); color: var(--ink-soft); }
.q-role:empty { display: none; }
.quote-sm { padding: 1.1rem 1.25rem 1rem; }
.quote-sm blockquote p { font-size: 1rem; }
.big-quote { margin: 0; }
.big-quote p { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: var(--step-3); line-height: 1.3; font-style: italic; color: var(--sea); margin-bottom: .5rem; }
.big-quote footer { color: var(--ink-soft); }

/* ------------------------------------------------ CTA band */
.cta-band { background: var(--sea); color: #fff; padding: var(--space-4) 0; }
.cta-inner { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; gap: 1.5rem; }
.cta-band h2 { color: #fff; font-size: var(--step-2); margin-bottom: .25rem; }
.cta-band p { margin: 0; color: #d6e8ec; }

/* ------------------------------------------------ page heads */
.page-head { padding: var(--space-4) 0 var(--space-4); background: radial-gradient(900px 400px at 90% -20%, #134a61 0%, rgba(19, 74, 97, 0) 65%), var(--abyss); }
.page-head h1 { font-size: var(--step-4); margin-bottom: .35em; }
.page-head .lead { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: var(--step-1); max-width: 60ch; color: var(--on-dark); }
.h1-sub { display: block; font-size: .45em; font-family: var(--sans); font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: .04em; color: var(--teal); margin-top: .35em; }
.crumbs ol { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0 0 1.25rem; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .25rem .5rem; font-size: var(--step--1); color: var(--on-dark-soft); }
.crumbs li + li::before { content: "›"; margin-right: .5rem; opacity: .6; }
.crumbs a { color: var(--on-dark-soft) !important; text-decoration: none; }
.crumbs a:hover { color: #fff !important; text-decoration: underline; }
.crumbs [aria-current] { color: var(--on-dark); }
.sets ul { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 1.25rem 0 0; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .5rem; }
.sets a { display: inline-block; padding: .45rem .95rem; border: 1px solid rgba(95, 208, 192, .4); border-radius: 999px; color: var(--on-dark) !important; text-decoration: none; font-size: .92rem; }
.sets a:hover { border-color: var(--teal); background: rgba(95, 208, 192, .1); }
.sets a[aria-current] { background: var(--teal); color: var(--abyss) !important; border-color: var(--teal); font-weight: 700; }
.related { margin: 1.25rem 0 0; }
.head-split { display: grid; gap: var(--space-4); align-items: center; }
@media (min-width: 820px) { .head-split { grid-template-columns: 1fr auto; } }
.head-portrait img { max-width: 260px; border-radius: var(--radius); }

/* ------------------------------------------------ justified photo grid */
.gallery { padding: var(--space-3) 0 var(--space-5); }
.jgrid { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 12px; }
.jgrid::after { content: ""; flex: 999 1 0; }
.jgrid .ph { flex: var(--ar) 1 calc(var(--ar) * 130px); min-width: 0; max-width: calc(var(--ar) * 340px); }
@media (min-width: 700px) { .jgrid .ph { flex-basis: calc(var(--ar) * 210px); } }
.ph a { display: block; border-radius: 6px; overflow: hidden; background: var(--deep); position: relative; }
.ph img { width: 100%; height: auto; transition: transform .35s ease, opacity .35s; }
.ph a:hover img { transform: scale(1.03); }
.ph figcaption { font-size: .86rem; line-height: 1.35; padding: .45rem .1rem 0; color: var(--on-dark-soft); }
.ph figcaption:empty { display: none; }
.prose .ph figcaption, .section .ph figcaption { color: var(--ink-soft); }
.h2-count { font-family: var(--sans); font-size: .5em; font-weight: 700; color: var(--abyss); background: var(--teal); padding: .1em .55em; border-radius: 999px; vertical-align: middle; }
.pager { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: 1rem; margin-top: var(--space-4); }
.pager a { display: block; padding: 1rem 1.2rem; border: 1px solid rgba(95, 208, 192, .35); border-radius: var(--radius); text-decoration: none; font-weight: 600; }
.pager a span { display: block; font-size: .75rem; letter-spacing: .1em; text-transform: uppercase; opacity: .75; font-weight: 700; }
.pager-next { text-align: right; grid-column: 2; }
.pager a:hover { background: rgba(95, 208, 192, .08); }
.section-alt .pager a { border-color: var(--line); background: var(--paper); color: var(--ink); }
.section-alt .pager a:hover { border-color: var(--teal-dark); }
.report-foot .center { margin-top: 1.5rem; }
.more-cats { padding: var(--space-4) 0; background: var(--sand-2); }
.more-cats h2 { font-size: var(--step-2); }
.chips { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0 0 1.25rem; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .5rem; }
.chips a { display: inline-block; padding: .5rem 1rem; border-radius: 999px; background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--line); color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; font-size: .95rem; }
.chips a span { color: var(--ink-soft); font-size: .85em; margin-left: .2em; }
.chips a:hover { border-color: var(--teal-dark); color: var(--teal-dark); }
.chips a[aria-current] { background: var(--sea); color: #fff; border-color: var(--sea); }
.chips a[aria-current] span { color: #cde3e8; }

/* ------------------------------------------------ gallery index */
.cat-grid { display: grid; gap: 1.5rem; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(min(100%, 340px), 1fr)); }
.cat-card { background: var(--paper); border-radius: var(--radius); overflow: hidden; box-shadow: 0 1px 0 var(--line); }
.cat-img { display: block; background: var(--deep); }
.cat-img img { width: 100%; transition: opacity .25s; }
.cat-img:hover img { opacity: .9; }
.cat-body { padding: 1.1rem 1.3rem 1.3rem; }
.cat-body h2 { font-size: var(--step-2); margin-bottom: .1em; }
.cat-body h2 a { color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; }
.cat-body h2 a:hover { color: var(--teal-dark); }
.cat-count { font-size: var(--step--1); font-weight: 700; color: var(--teal-dark); letter-spacing: .04em; }
.set-list { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: .5rem 0 0; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .4rem; }
.set-list a { display: inline-block; font-size: .88rem; padding: .3rem .75rem; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 999px; text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink); }
.set-list a span { color: var(--ink-soft); font-size: .85em; }
.set-list a:hover { border-color: var(--teal-dark); color: var(--teal-dark); }

/* ------------------------------------------------ trip report article */
.report-head { padding: var(--space-4) 0 var(--space-5); background: radial-gradient(900px 400px at 90% -20%, #134a61 0%, rgba(19, 74, 97, 0) 65%), var(--abyss); }
.report-head-grid { display: grid; gap: var(--space-4); align-items: center; }
@media (min-width: 960px) { .report-head-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr minmax(0, 560px); } .report-head-grid.is-portrait { grid-template-columns: 1fr minmax(0, 340px); } }
.report-head h1 { font-size: var(--step-4); margin-bottom: .25em; }
.report-head .lead { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: var(--step-1); max-width: 46ch; }
.report-hero { max-width: var(--w); width: 100%; justify-self: center; }
.report-hero img { width: 100%; border-radius: var(--radius); box-shadow: 0 24px 48px -24px rgba(0, 0, 0, .8); }
.jump { margin-top: 1.25rem; }
.report-body { padding: var(--space-5) 0; }
.prose { width: min(100% - 2.5rem, 720px); margin-inline: auto; font-size: 1.08rem; line-height: 1.75; }
.prose > p:first-child::first-letter { font-family: var(--serif); float: left; font-size: 3.4em; line-height: .85; padding: .08em .1em 0 0; color: var(--sea); }
.prose h2 { font-size: var(--step-2); margin-top: 2.2em; }
.prose h3 { margin-top: 1.8em; }
.prose ul { padding-left: 1.2em; }
.prose li { margin-bottom: .3em; }
.prose .critters { columns: 2 220px; column-gap: 2rem; list-style: none; padding: 0; font-size: .97rem; }
.prose .critters li { break-inside: avoid; padding-left: 1em; position: relative; }
.prose .critters li::before { content: ""; position: absolute; left: 0; top: .7em; width: .4em; height: .4em; border-radius: 50%; background: var(--teal-dark); }
.fig-single { margin: 2rem auto; max-width: var(--w); }
.fig-single img { width: 100%; border-radius: 6px; }
.fig-single figcaption, .group-cap { font-size: .92rem; color: var(--ink-soft); margin-top: .5rem; font-style: italic; line-height: 1.45; }
.fig-row { margin: 2rem 0; }
@media (min-width: 1000px) { .fig-row { margin-inline: -120px; } }
.jgrid-sm { gap: 10px; }
@media (min-width: 700px) { .jgrid-sm .ph { flex-basis: calc(var(--ar) * 190px); } }
.signoff { margin-top: 2.5rem; display: flex; flex-direction: column; }
.sig { font-family: var(--serif); font-style: italic; font-size: 1.8rem; color: var(--sea); line-height: 1.1; }
.sig-date { font-size: var(--step--1); color: var(--ink-soft); letter-spacing: .06em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.byline { font-size: var(--step--1); color: var(--ink-soft); text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: .08em; }
.trip-photos { padding-top: var(--space-5); }
.trip-photos h2 { font-size: var(--step-3); }

/* ------------------------------------------------ trip index preface */
.preface { display: grid; gap: var(--space-4); }
@media (min-width: 960px) { .preface { grid-template-columns: 1fr 340px; align-items: start; } .preface .prose { margin: 0; width: auto; } }
.preface .prose > p:first-child::first-letter { all: unset; }
.preface-figs { display: grid; gap: 1.25rem; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(200px, 1fr)); }
.preface-figs img { border-radius: 6px; width: 100%; }
.preface-figs figcaption { font-size: .88rem; color: var(--ink-soft); margin-top: .35rem; font-style: italic; }

/* ------------------------------------------------ links */
.links-layout { display: grid; gap: var(--space-4); }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .links-layout { grid-template-columns: 1fr 360px; align-items: start; } }
.link-group + .link-group { margin-top: var(--space-4); }
.link-group h2 { font-size: var(--step-2); }
.link-list { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0; display: grid; gap: .75rem; }
.link-list li { background: var(--paper); border-radius: var(--radius); padding: 1rem 1.2rem; box-shadow: 0 1px 0 var(--line); }
.link-list p { margin: .25rem 0 0; font-size: .95rem; color: var(--ink-soft); }
.ext { font-weight: 700; font-size: 1.08rem; text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink); }
.ext:hover { color: var(--teal-dark); text-decoration: underline; }
.ext-host { display: block; font-weight: 400; font-size: .85rem; color: var(--teal-dark); }
.links-fig img { border-radius: var(--radius); }
.links-fig figcaption { font-size: .9rem; color: var(--ink-soft); font-style: italic; margin-top: .4rem; }

/* ------------------------------------------------ contact */
.contact-grid { display: grid; gap: var(--space-4); }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .contact-grid { grid-template-columns: 1.4fr 1fr; gap: var(--space-5); } }
.contact-form { display: grid; gap: 1.1rem; background: var(--paper); padding: 1.6rem; border-radius: var(--radius); box-shadow: 0 1px 0 var(--line); }
.field label { display: block; font-weight: 600; margin-bottom: .35rem; }
.field input, .field textarea { width: 100%; font: inherit; padding: .75rem .85rem; border: 1px solid #b9ad9a; border-radius: 8px; background: #fff; color: var(--ink); }
.field input:focus, .field textarea:focus { outline: 3px solid rgba(31, 127, 134, .35); border-color: var(--teal-dark); }
.contact-form .btn { justify-self: start; }
.hp { position: absolute; left: -10000px; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow: hidden; }
.form-status { padding: .9rem 1rem; border-radius: 8px; background: #e2f4f1; color: #0f4d4f; margin: 0; }
.form-status.is-error { background: #fde9e2; color: #7a2a12; }
.contact-portrait img { max-width: 168px; border-radius: var(--radius); margin-bottom: 1.25rem; }
.email { font-weight: 700; word-break: break-all; }

/* ------------------------------------------------ site map */
.sitemap-grid { display: grid; gap: var(--space-4); grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(min(100%, 280px), 1fr)); }
.sitemap-grid h2 { font-size: var(--step-2); }
.tree { padding-left: 1.1em; line-height: 1.9; }
.tree ul { padding-left: 1.1em; }

/* ------------------------------------------------ 404 */
.notfound { padding: var(--space-6) 0; }

/* ------------------------------------------------ footer */
.site-footer { background: #05131c; color: var(--on-dark-soft); padding: var(--space-5) 0 var(--space-3); font-size: .95rem; }
.site-footer a { color: var(--on-dark); }
.site-footer a:hover { color: var(--teal); }
.site-footer a.btn-coral, .site-footer a.btn-coral:hover { color: var(--abyss); }
.footer-grid { display: grid; gap: var(--space-4); grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(min(100%, 210px), 1fr)); }
.site-footer h2 { font-family: var(--sans); font-size: .78rem; letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--teal); margin-bottom: 1rem; }
.site-footer ul { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0; display: grid; gap: .4rem; }
.site-footer ul a { text-decoration: none; }
.site-footer ul a:hover { text-decoration: underline; }
.footer-quote { margin: 1.25rem 0 0; font-family: var(--serif); font-style: italic; color: var(--on-dark); font-size: 1.05rem; max-width: 30ch; }
.footer-quote footer { font-style: normal; font-size: .9rem; color: var(--on-dark-soft); margin-top: .3rem; }
.footer-contact .btn { margin-top: .5rem; }
.footer-contact .email { color: var(--on-dark); }
.fine { margin-top: var(--space-4); padding-top: var(--space-3); border-top: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, .08); font-size: .82rem; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; justify-content: space-between; gap: .5rem 1.5rem; }
.fine p { margin: 0; }
.fine a { color: var(--on-dark-soft); }

/* ------------------------------------------------ lightbox (JS) */
.lightbox { border: 0; padding: 0; margin: 0; width: 100vw; height: 100vh; max-width: 100vw; max-height: 100vh; background: rgba(3, 12, 18, .96); color: var(--on-dark); }
.lightbox::backdrop { background: rgba(3, 12, 18, .9); }
.lb-stage { position: absolute; inset: 3.5rem 3.5rem 5.5rem; display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center; }
.lb-stage img { max-width: 100%; max-height: 100%; width: auto; height: auto; object-fit: contain; border-radius: 4px; box-shadow: 0 20px 60px rgba(0, 0, 0, .6); }
.lb-cap { position: absolute; left: 1rem; right: 1rem; bottom: 1.25rem; text-align: center; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.1rem; }
.lb-count { display: block; font-family: var(--sans); font-size: .8rem; color: var(--on-dark-soft); margin-top: .2rem; }
.lb-btn { position: absolute; background: rgba(255, 255, 255, .08); color: #fff; border: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, .2); width: 2.9rem; height: 2.9rem; border-radius: 50%; font-size: 1.4rem; line-height: 1; cursor: pointer; display: grid; place-items: center; }
.lb-btn:hover { background: rgba(255, 255, 255, .18); }
.lb-close { top: .75rem; right: .75rem; }
.lb-prev { left: .5rem; top: 50%; transform: translateY(-50%); }
.lb-next { right: .5rem; top: 50%; transform: translateY(-50%); }
@media (max-width: 640px) { .lb-stage { inset: 3.5rem .5rem 6rem; } .lb-prev, .lb-next { top: auto; bottom: 4.5rem; transform: none; } }

/* hero layout: text, photo, facts (facts move under the text on wide screens) */
.hero-grid { grid-template-areas: "text" "photo" "facts"; }
.hero-text { grid-area: text; }
.hero-photo { grid-area: photo; }
.facts { grid-area: facts; }
@media (min-width: 960px) {
  .hero-grid { grid-template-areas: "text photo" "facts photo"; row-gap: var(--space-3); }
  .hero-text .hero-actions { margin-bottom: 0; }
  .facts { align-self: start; }
}
@media (max-width: 600px) {
  .hero { padding-top: var(--space-4); }
  .hero-promise { font-size: 1.2rem; }
  .hero-actions { margin: 1.25rem 0 0; }
  .hero-actions .btn-lg { padding: .8em 1.2em; font-size: 1rem; }
  .hero .eyebrow { display: none; }
}